Walking
around the historical quarter of the city, one can still
appreciate the medieval layout of the street which the Moorish
Murcians wandered around. The streets are narrow, but very
cool in summer and they provide shelter from the freezing
winter winds. There are still traditional neighbourhoods
which have kept their medieval appearance with Baroque churches
in the place where there once were mosques: San Lorenzo,
San Bartolomé, Santa Catalina, San Pedro and San
Nicolás. Santa Eulalia, an old Jewish quarter, is
also worthy of mention, as there you can find the remains
of a medieval door through which the Aragonese monarch Jaime
I the Conqueror made his triumphant entrance.
The growth of the Islamic city created a densely populated
area on the outskirts: "El arrabal de la Arrixaca"
(the San Antolín and San Andrés neighbourhoods).
A chapel, where the Mozárabes and Christian merchants
prayed to the Virgin of Arrixaca, once existed there. This
virgin, who was represented in the "Cantigas Alfonsíes",
was the patron of Murcia until the beginning of the XVIII
century, and her wooden image is kept in San Andrés
church, next to the Salzillo. Very close by, in the Plaza
de las Agustinas, the city museum has recently been opened.
There are several rooms dedicated to Islamic Murcia, where
models and high quality artefacts are on show.
The Moorish geographers and travellers who visited our city
described the magnitude of its defences in astonishment.
The monumental remains of the Islamic wall, which have been
conserved are numerous. Actually, the wall was formed by
a "barbacana" or external barrier, a patrol walkway
and the wall itself, higher than the front part of the wall,
and was marked by strong defensive towers, like those conserved
in Verónicas or Santa Eulalia. In the parish of San
Antolín, remains can be found in a chapel and in
an art gallery situated in the Calle del Pilar.
Like all Muslim cities, Murcia had a citadel or "alcazaba"
an isolated area where the emir, the noble government and
the court resided. Many centuries later, it is still the
place where the local and religious authorities (Ayuntamiento
and Palacio Episcopal) can be found. During a recent archaeological
excavation, which took place next to the church museum of
San Juan de Dios (the old fortress mosque), the remains
of an Islamic oratory with a "mihrab" were found.
It will be possible to visit this soon. The archaeological
excavations taking place in our Cathedral have discovered
the remains of the "aljama" or main mosque, conserved
below the ground there. Outside the Christian temple, you
can admire the Gothic facade in the Plaza de los Apostoles,
whilst inside you can visit the medieval chapels, such as
that of San Antonio or Los Vélez.
However, without doubt, the most monumental architectural
remains belong to the "Seguir" fortress or the
minor fortress of the Murcian emirs. It consists of a fortified
palace built in the mid eighteenth century on the ruins
of the previous palace which dated from the twelfth century.
Inside the Santa Clara la Real Monastery the hall has been
conserved with its bedchambers and the north porch, all
of which is richly decorated with polychrome plasterwork
and monumental arches which will soon be opened to the public.
Some remains of the fortress (those which belong to the
south hall and to the west wing) have been conserved and
can be visited in the basement and exhibition hall of the
Cultural Centre in Las Claras.