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TOUR OF LA MEDINA (historical quarter)
Walking
around the historical quarter of the city, one can still
appreciate the medieval layout of the street which the
Moorish Murcians wandered around. The streets are narrow,
but very cool in summer and they provide shelter from
the freezing winter winds. There are still traditional
neighbourhoods which have kept their medieval appearance
with Baroque churches in the place where there once
were mosques: San Lorenzo, San Bartolomé, Santa
Catalina, San Pedro and San Nicolás. Santa Eulalia,
an old Jewish quarter, is also worthy of mention, as
there you can find the remains of a medieval door through
which the Aragonese monarch Jaime I the Conqueror made
his triumphant entrance.
The growth of the Islamic city created a densely populated
area on the outskirts: "El arrabal de la Arrixaca"
(the San Antolín and San Andrés neighbourhoods).
A chapel, where the Mozárabes and Christian merchants
prayed to the Virgin of Arrixaca, once existed there.
This virgin, who was represented in the "Cantigas
Alfonsíes", was the patron of Murcia until
the beginning of the XVIII century, and her wooden image
is kept in San Andrés church, next to the Salzillo.
Very close by, in the Plaza de las Agustinas, the city
museum has recently been opened. There are several rooms
dedicated to Islamic Murcia, where models and high quality
artefacts are on show.
The Moorish geographers and travellers who visited our
city described the magnitude of its defences in astonishment.
The monumental remains of the Islamic wall, which have
been conserved are numerous. Actually, the wall was
formed by a "barbacana" or external barrier,
a patrol walkway and the wall itself, higher than the
front part of the wall, and was marked by strong defensive
towers, like those conserved in Verónicas or
Santa Eulalia. In the parish of San Antolín,
remains can be found in a chapel and in an art gallery
situated in the Calle del Pilar.
Like all Muslim cities, Murcia had a citadel or "alcazaba"
an isolated area where the emir, the noble government
and the court resided. Many centuries later, it is still
the place where the local and religious authorities
(Ayuntamiento and Palacio Episcopal) can be found. During
a recent archaeological excavation, which took place
next to the church museum of San Juan de Dios (the old
fortress mosque), the remains of an Islamic oratory
with a "mihrab" were found. It will be possible
to visit this soon. The archaeological excavations taking
place in our Cathedral have discovered the remains of
the "aljama" or main mosque, conserved below
the ground there. Outside the Christian temple, you
can admire the Gothic facade in the Plaza de los Apostoles,
whilst inside you can visit the medieval chapels, such
as that of San Antonio or Los Vélez.
However, without doubt, the most monumental architectural
remains belong to the "Seguir" fortress or
the minor fortress of the Murcian emirs. It consists
of a fortified palace built in the mid eighteenth century
on the ruins of the previous palace which dated from
the twelfth century. Inside the Santa Clara la Real
Monastery the hall has been conserved with its bedchambers
and the north porch, all of which is richly decorated
with polychrome plasterwork and monumental arches which
will soon be opened to the public. Some remains of the
fortress (those which belong to the south hall and to
the west wing) have been conserved and can be visited
in the basement and exhibition hall of the Cultural
Centre in Las Claras.
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